Archive for July, 2009

a fond french farewell

bistro salad

bistro salad

The news shocked us all. My good friend from journalism school, Irwin, had accepted a job in Cambodia. And he was leaving in a few months. To top it all off, he was heading off to Ecuador for a friend’s wedding for three weeks of the summer – which meant there was little time to squeeze in a J-school reunion/farewell party.

We left the choice of restaurants in his hands. He decided on one of our crew’s favourites – Bistrot Bistro on Fourth.

Bistrot Bistro describes its menu as “traditional French country fare, comprised of the kind of dishes invented to share with friends and family over long, cozy conversation.” It’s true. Maybe it’s the simplicity of the dishes that keeps drawing us back, or maybe it’s the attention to detail. Or maybe it’s the fact that for well under a hundred bucks each, we can have three courses with wine and leave feeling full and satisfied. Whatever it is, we knew a revisit was definitely in order.

The restaurant is tucked into a small space on Fourth, between Maple and Cypress. It looks like a modern-day French farmhouse, with key-lime coloured walls, steel-grey wooden chairs and tealights flickering throughout the space. For the summer, they open the gargage-door-style windows, which let a warm breeze in. We were seated in the middle of the restaurant that night.

From Sunday to Thursday, Bistrot Bistro offers a three-course prix fixe menu for only $26. And lucky for us, they were offering this deal every day of the week for the month of July. We all decided to take advantage of this offer.

Another cool thing they offer is Karma Tuesdays. Every Tuesday, five per cent of their sales will be donated to a local charity or non-profit organization – pretty generous considering the dire state of the current economy.

carrot orange soup

carrot orange soup

We started off with a giant, crusty baguette, which came with a smooth olive tapenade. The five of us are typically conscious of filling up on bread (especially – gasp! – white bread), but we basically fought over the last pieces to slather on the warm tapenade.

The three gals ordered a half-litre of the Domaine Clos Du Bourg Sauvignon Blanc Touraine to share, while Irwin had a glass of rose (!) and Sam had a Stella. The sauvignon blanc was lovely and crisp – a perfect way to start the meal and a great compliment to my carrot orange soup.

The guys and I had the soup, while Leslie and Pat tried the bistro green salad. The soup was a bit thicker than I expected. It had tons of ginger and was served with two crostinis with blue cheese. It wasn’t a perfect way to start a meal on a hot night, but I would definitely order it again in the winter.

According to the ladies, the salad was all about the dressing, as our server had promised. The salad itself was just mixed greens, but the vinaigrette had shallots, olive oil, garlic Dijon and then balsamic vinegar drizzled on top – apparently it didn’t need anything else.

We were almost unanimous in our choice of main. Four of us ordered the New York steak – two with the peppercorn sauce and two with the blue cheese sauce – while Irwin tried the half roasted chicken au jus. We decided to share a plate of the carrots with glazed almonds (which is big enough for at least five people to share). And all of it came with shoe-string fries and mayo.

I have to say I’ve had better steaks in my life. Maybe it’s ‘cause I’m an Alberta girl and grew up with perfectly barbequed steaks. Or maybe I just find it weird to pan fry a steak. Anyhow, the sauce was definitely tasty (and surprisingly good paired with the frites), and the meat was cooked as ordered. I just don’t think I’d order it again – not ‘cause it wasn’t good, per se, but because I like my steak grilled.

new york steak with blue cheese sauce

new york steak with blue cheese sauce

Pat and I shared a bottle of the Cave de Rasteau Grenache Syrah Cotes du Rhone to go with our steak and desert. It was delicious – rich and full bodied and tasting of blackberries with a slight touch of pepper. A great compliment to our steak and went well with desert, too.

The carrots were sweet and tender, with a sprinkling of toasted almonds for crunch. Well worth the $3 that they cost (unbelievable!). And Irwin’s chicken looked delicious – crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. It was also a lot of chicken, so a dish to consider if you’re especially hungry (or in the mood for chicken).

As I’ve mentioned before, it takes a lot for me to be impressed with fries. I think the mark of a good French fry is that you don’t feel the need to use any sort of sauce.

These were just that.

I hate to say it, but they were like a gourmet version of McDonald’s French fries (from what I remember – it’s been probably five years since I’ve eaten at McDonald’s). Thin and crispy, but still tender on the inside, these fries had a light dusting of salt. They came in two buckets for our table and we dove right into them. And they somehow managed to be not greasy. These fries made it worth the trip.

No, wait – I haven’t mentioned desert yet….

I’ve been to Bistrot Bistro three times and every time I order the chocolate mousse. Although I’m a pretty big chocolate fan, I wouldn’t say I’m fanatical (unlike my friend, Amanda, who keeps a stash in her purse). But if you’d like to have the closest thing to an orgasm without taking your pants off, order the chocolate mousse.

chocolate mousse

chocolate mousse

The server starts by placing a white bowl in front of you. You’re then left hanging for a bit while they prepare the rest of your table’s deserts. The server arrives with a giant vat of the mousse and then scoops three huge spoonfuls of the glorious goo in your bowl. Honestly? It looks a bit like poo. But never mind the looks. You’ll be eating with your eyes closed in order to savour the chocolately, creamy goodness.

Order. The. Chocolate. Mousse.

By the time we finished desert, it was just after ten and the tea lights began to give a soft glow to the place. The servers didn’t rush us out and chatted with us about Irwin’s new gig. It felt kind of like a dinner party winding down. And really, what more could you ask for when dining out with friends?

Bistrot Bistro
1961 West 4th Avenue
Vancouver | BC
604.732.0004
bistrotbistro.com

The news shocked us all. My good friend from journalism school, Irwin, had accepted a job in Cambodia. And he was leaving in a few months. To top it all off, he was heading off to Ecuador for a friend’s wedding for three weeks of the summer – which meant there was little time to squeeze in a J-school reunion/farewell party.

We left the choice of restaurants in his hands. He decided on one of our crew’s favourites – Bistrot Bistro on Fourth.

Bistrot Bistro describes its menu as “traditional French country fare, comprised of the kind of dishes invented to share with friends and family over long, cozy conversation.” It’s true. Maybe it’s the simplicity of the dishes that keeps drawing us back, or maybe it’s the attention to detail. Or maybe it’s the fact that for well under a hundred bucks each, we can have three courses with wine and leave feeling full and satisfied. Whatever it is, we knew a revisit was definitely in order.

The restaurant is tucked into a small space on Fourth, between Maple and Cypress. It looks like a modern-day French farmhouse, with key-lime coloured walls, steel-grey wooden chairs and tealights flickering throughout the space. For the summer, they open the gargage-door-style windows, which let a warm breeze in. We were seated in the middle of the restaurant that night.

From Sunday to Thursday, Bistrot Bistro offers a three-course prix fixe menu for only $26. And lucky for us, they were offering this deal every day of the week for the month of July. We all decided to take advantage of this offer.

Another cool thing they offer is Karma Tuesdays. Every Tuesday, five per cent of their sales will be donated to a local charity or non-profit organization – pretty generous considering the dire state of the current economy.

We started off with a giant, crusty baguette, which came with a smooth olive tapenade. The five of us are typically conscious of filling up on bread (especially – gasp! – white bread), but we basically fought over the last pieces to slather on the warm tapenade.

The three gals ordered a half-litre of the Domaine Clos Du Bourg Sauvignon Blanc Touraine to share, while Irwin had a glass of rose (!) and Sam had a Stella. The sauvignon blanc was lovely and crisp – a perfect way to start the meal and a great compliment to my carrot orange soup.

The guys and I had the soup, while Leslie and Pat tried the bistro green salad. The soup was a bit thicker than I expected. It had tons of ginger and was served with two crostinis with blue cheese. It wasn’t a perfect way to start a meal on a hot night, but I would definitely order it again in the winter.

According to the ladies, the salad was all about the dressing, as our server had promised. The salad itself was just mixed greens, but the vinaigrette had shallots, olive oil, garlic Dijon and then balsamic vinegar drizzled on top – apparently it didn’t need anything else.

We were almost unanimous in our choice of main. Four of us ordered the New York steak – two with the peppercorn sauce and two with the blue cheese sauce – while Irwin tried the half roasted chicken au jus. We decided to share a plate of the carrots with glazed almonds (which is big enough for at least five people to share). And all of it came with shoe-string fries and mayo.

I have to say I’ve had better steaks in my life. Maybe it’s ‘cause I’m an Alberta girl and grew up with perfectly barbequed steaks. Or maybe I just find it weird to pan fry a steak. Anyhow, the sauce was definitely tasty (and surprisingly good paired with the frites), and the meat was cooked as ordered. I just don’t think I’d order it again – not ‘cause it wasn’t good, per se, but because I like my steak grilled.

Pat and I shared a bottle of the Cave de Rasteau Grenache Syrah Cotes du Rhone to go with our steak and desert. It was delicious – rich and full bodied and tasting of blackberries with a slight touch of pepper. A great compliment to our steak and went well with desert, too.

The carrots were sweet and tender, with a sprinkling of toasted almonds for crunch. Well worth the $3 that they cost (unbelievable!). And Irwin’s chicken looked delicious – crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. It was also a lot of chicken, so a dish to consider if you’re especially hungry (or in the mood for chicken).

As I’ve mentioned before, it takes a lot for me to be impressed with fries. I think the mark of a good French fry is that you don’t feel the need to use any sort of sauce.

These were just that.

I hate to say it, but they were like a gourmet version of McDonald’s French fries (from what I remember – it’s been probably five years since I’ve eaten at McDonald’s). Thin and crispy, but still tender on the inside, these fries had a light dusting of salt. They came in two buckets for our table and we dove right into them. And they somehow managed to be not greasy. These fries made it worth the trip.

No, wait – I haven’t mentioned desert yet….

I’ve been to Bistrot Bistro three times and every time I order the chocolate mousse. Although I’m a pretty big chocolate fan, I wouldn’t say I’m fanatical (unlike my friend, Amanda, who keeps a stash in her purse). But if you’d like to have the closest thing to an orgasm without taking your pants off, order the chocolate mousse.

The server starts by placing a white bowl in front of you. You’re then left hanging for a bit while they prepare the rest of your table’s deserts. The server arrives with a giant vat of the mousse and then scoops three huge spoonfuls of the glorious goo in your bowl. Honestly? It looks a bit like poo. But never mind the looks. You’ll be eating with your eyes closed in order to savour the chocolately, creamy goodness.

Order. The. Chocolate. Mousse.

By the time we finished desert, it was just after ten and the tea lights began to give a soft glow to the place. The servers didn’t rush us out and chatted with us about Irwin’s new gig. It felt kind of like a dinner party winding down. And really, what more could you ask for when dining out with friends?

Bistrot Bistro

1961 West 4th Avenue

Vancouver | BC

604.732.0004

bistrotbistro.com

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30

07 2009

around the world in four dishes

berkshire pork belly

berkshire pork belly

It had been a while since my friend, Melanie, and I had hung out. So I proposed a night of good food, great wine, and some good old fashioned gossip. Since visiting Purple Café and Wine Bar in Seattle, I had flights of wine on the brain. So when I read that r.tl (Regional Tasting Lounge) in Yaletown was doing just that, I knew it would be the perfect venue for my wine-loving friend and I.

I think I’m personally beginning to finally see the effects of the economy on Vancouver restaurants. We had made a reso for seven, and when I met Melanie (late because of the stupid last Friday of the month bike ride), there were only two other tables full.

No matter. Mel and I had a lot of food and wine to get through. Here’s the concept of r.tl: change the regional focus of the menu every three months or so – two different international regions and the third is always BC. When we went, it was Portugal and France.

It was definitely difficult to choose our small plates (no entrees on their menu), as it really all looked so good. We finally settled on oak barrel smoked breast of magret duck, pork alentejana and papas Portuguese.

That seemed to be the easy part. Then there were the wines to choose. After starring blindly at the menu, we called over sommelier and operations manager, Alain Canuel.

wine flight

wine flight

We told him what we were having and he suggested three wines to go with the dishes: a pinot gris from Kettle Valley in BC to start, Vinzelo Tinto from Portugal to go with the duck and a cabernet sauvignon from Blackwood Lane in BC to go with the pork alentejana.

The pinot was a nice way to start off the meal: crisp and refreshing on a warm night. Soon enough, the duck breast arrived. I think I expected it to be warm, but instead it was cold. Nonetheless, it was delicious. The duck is smoked in-house and served with a small, three-grape salad and crunchy walnuts.

Then, bad news: they were out of the pork alentejana. We decided to try their fresh steamed mussels, which were served that day in a spinach cream sauce. Alain was kind enough to bring us another taster of wine to go with that dish: Director’s Cut Chardonnay from Francis Ford Coppola winery (buttery smooth with hints of vanilla).

The mussels were a bit of a surprise. I don’t think it really mattered what they were served with, as we are both huge fans of mussels (as I’ve mentioned before). The mussels were fresh and juicy (and all of them were open – a huge pet peeve of mine when they’re not. Why serve me mussels that I can’t eat?). The spinach sauce was definitely different – not in a bad way – I’d just never had mussels like that before. The whole thing was finished with a sprinkling of basil, which complimented the sweetness of the plump mussels.

patatas Portugeuse

papas Portuguese

I know it’s bad to say one of our favourite dishes was the papas Portuguese, but I really think potatoes are an unsung food. A staple in any kitchen and can be done up any way imaginable, but when done right, potatoes are sometimes just the thing the soul needs. I can imagine coming in for a plate of these and a glass of the Coppola Chardonnay after a day of shopping, a prelude to a night out or after a night of dancing and dining. These were crisp on the outside, tender on the inside and paired with the sweet smoked paprika aioli, they resembled French fries gone gourmet.

We were still a bit hungry and we still had a glass of wine left – the Blackwood Lane cabernet sauvignon. We decided to do things a bit backwards and called Alain over to suggest a dish to go with the wine. He suggested the Berkshire pork belly – which we had been eyeing anyhow.

mussels

mussels

The pork was served with hibiscus braised purple cabbage, cipollini onions and a braeburn apple compote. The skin of the pork was crispy and combined with the sweet onions, gave a nice textural contrast to the velvety-smooth meat. I’m telling you – this was the best thing we had all night (and as Alain confirmed later – the most popular). The purple cabbage (which, in my opinion, should only ever be served cooked), finished the dish off to make it a bit sweet and sour. And just as Alain suggested, the Blackwood Lane cabernet sauvignon was a great compliment to the pork.

r.tl is a typically gorgeous Yaletown room, and small enough for the servers to have their eyes on you at all times. Our server was never intrusive, despite the fact that she probably didn’t have too much to do, as the restaurant wasn’t too busy. And I liked that the staff presented each dish when it arrived and gave you a chance to ask questions.

But for Melanie and I, the service highlight was definitely Alain. You could tell he personally carefully selected each wine with the menu in mind. And we appreciated his choices – he didn’t automatically jump to the most expensive on the menu (although most glasses by the flight are around the same price).

I was relieved to see the restaurant was filling out by the time we left (seriously – does no one in this town eat before nine these days?), and it’s a shame we were too stuffed for desert.

smoked breast of magret duck

smoked breast of magret duck

But no matter – r.tl is a restaurant you could easily visit every few months and never be bored. I just hope this hidden gem doesn’t end up another unfortunate victim of this terrible economy. Because great service, food and value like r.tl’s are somewhat of an anomaly these days…

Regional Tasting Lounge
1130 Mainland Street
Vancouver | BC
604.638.1550
r.tl

Regional Tasting Lounge (RTL)

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08

07 2009